In just a decade, the transformation has been astounding. The Beaujolais Nouveau wines have seen a remarkable improvement (and by a considerable margin!). This renaissance can be largely attributed to Kevin Descombes.
The son of the legendary winemaker George Descombes, Kevin — affectionately known as Kéké among friends — is part of a vanguard that has not only perpetuated but also enhanced the legacy of these wines released annually on the third Thursday of November. The 1970s witnessed a phenomenon where the production of red wine in the southern part of Burgundy tripled, permeating every corner of France and crossing international borders. Detractors once argued that this surge in production inevitably led to a decline in quality; however, this stigma has been thoroughly dispelled by Kevin Descombes and his red wine, K. Descombes Cuvée Kéké.
Organic farming and non-intrusive, respectful winemaking techniques are the twin pillars that have redeemed the reputation of these wines. Without them, success would be unattainable. At least that's the stance of Kéké, who zealously preserves the indigenous yeasts that contribute so significantly during fermentation. "Thermo-vinification is truly detrimental. You heat your harvest to about 70°C for 30 to 40 minutes, press, cool down... And there you have it! You've annihilated all bacterial life. The bad yeasts, but also the good ones," asserts the vigneron. Thus, in his wines, one is assured of discovering the subtle nuances and characteristics imparted by the granitic soils and the mild climate of the A.O.C. Morgon. Can you imagine the flavors they might reveal?
At the K. Descombes Cuvée Kéké winery, a carbonic maceration process is employed, where the grape clusters are handled whole, without destemming or crushing. The weight of the harvested grapes in the vat, combined with low oxygen levels, extracts the utmost juiciness from the gamay grapes. After a week, K. Descombes Cuvée Kéké is pressed and bottled, ready to hit the market in November with its new image, new flavor, and enhanced quality. Bon appétit!