It is often said that three's a crowd. Yet at Fil·loxera & Cía, not a single soul is superfluous. Pilar Estévez, José Domenech, and Joan Llobell are each indispensable to the vitality of one of the most intriguing and innovative wineries in Spain.
Just as phylloxera transformed the wine landscape — decimating vineyards across the globe — this venture has utterly altered the lives of these three wine enthusiasts. It is from this historic pest that they derive their name. This new chapter, which began in 2011, challenged them to craft distinctive wines using unique grape varieties from the D.O. Valencia region, in Fontanars dels Alforins. And by "unique varieties," we mean truly singular grapes — some nearly lost to time — now being revived, such as ull de perdiu (partridge's eye), which is used to create Fil·loxera & Cía Mujer Caballo Verde.
Fil·loxera & Cía Mujer Caballo Verde is a monovarietal red wine with pronounced acidity, aged for eight months on its lees. Without this process, taming its robust flavor would be unfeasible, although the real work begins in the vineyard, within the 17 hectares of both young and old vines (some over 60 years old) under the stewardship of this trio. They cultivate with the utmost respect for the environment, always aiming to benefit not just the vineyard but also the indigenous species and fruit trees that intersperse their plots. This is combined with their research and recovery efforts, where they are dedicated to rescuing nearly extinct grape varieties.
The rest of the process is unpretentious. In fact, the vinification takes place in the garage of Pilar and José's home, one of the few spaces remaining unoccupied in the couple's household. Fil·loxera & Cía Mujer Caballo Verde is hand-harvested and partially destemmed. The remainder of the harvest undergoes a gentle and minimal crushing, preparing it for fermentation. Fil·loxera & Cía Mujer Caballo Verde ferments in contact with the grape skins using indigenous yeasts, followed by a brief and delicate maceration where the wine remains in contact with the skins. The final eight months spent on its lees will be the perfect finishing touch for this wine.
Fil·loxera & Cía Mujer Caballo Verde is part of a very special collection, crafted exclusively from ancestral varieties that are being revived, such as valencí (among many others). A portion of their success comes from these bottles, which are highly original both in design and taste. Gradually, Fil·loxera & Cía is expanding, and space is becoming scarce at the headquarters of this project. It's impossible to fence in the field, and should success arrive, it must be welcomed with open arms. That moment may take us by surprise, but let it find you well-equipped with a glass of Fil·loxera & Cía Mujer Caballo Verde in hand.