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Exploring El Grifo with Elisa Ludeña
If someone mentions "vinos de Canarias," you might envision pits dug into the black ash of an almost lunar landscape. However, don't be mistaken; while all Canarian wines carry the Atlantic breeze, salinity, and the scent of the sea, only one place boasts that unique setting: La Geria in Lanzarote.
Amidst this sea of ash, we are welcomed by El Grifo, the oldest winery in the Canary Islands and one of the most enduring in Spain, boasting over 250 years of history. Here, Elisa Ludeña works, part of a generation adept at merging technique with sensitivity, tradition with innovation. Her mission: to decipher an extreme landscape where the wind never ceases, rain is a rarity, and ash dictates the rhythm of life.
La Geria: the vineyard of the impossible
In this volcanic soil—known as picón, rofe, or ash—viticulture is an exercise in ingenuity and resilience. Following the eruptions of the 18th century, the land was blanketed by meters of ash. Rather than surrender, the vintners began digging pits until they reached fertile soil. The closer to the volcano, the deeper the pit.
The extraordinary discovery came later when they found that these volcanic pits absorbed the nocturnal dew and channelled it to the roots like a natural funnel. On an island where it scarcely rains, this natural phenomenon changed everything. Hence, La Geria is known as the vineyard of the impossible, although—as Elisa insists—it is indeed possible because “nature is wise... and because the vintner has learned to make a living.”
The history of El Grifo is also unique. Before it became a winery, the area was already known by this name because travellers would stop to drink water. Hence the name of the project. Years later, the renowned island artist César Manrique reinterpreted this name and created the Pájaro Grifo, half eagle, half lion, guardian of Dionysus's wine and now an inseparable symbol of the winery.
From Ecuador to Lanzarote: a call from the land
Elisa's path to wine is also unconventional. Born in Ecuador, she arrived in Lanzarote at the age of 14 and studied Tourism. However, she soon felt the urge to escape the “sun and beach” cliché. She specialised in wine tourism, and upon setting foot in her first winery, the vineyard completely captivated her, leading her to swap sun and sand for vines and rofe.
There, she grasped something essential: the primary sector is the true economic engine of the island, and nurturing it means sustaining its identity. This connection with the land becomes even more evident in a territory where the lack of water is a constant challenge. Here, it practically never rains. Nevertheless, the island is experiencing a vibrant moment: today there are 36 wineries, double the number five years ago, albeit with less grape yield due to the scant rainfall in recent years.
Tradition with an eye on the future
Despite its 250-year history, El Grifo exudes a contemporary energy. In addition to its bestsellers, such as Malvasía Lías, Malvasía Colección Semidulce, Malvasía Colección Seco, or the special edition Malvasía Volcánica Lías created to commemorate its 250th anniversary, the winery is distinguished by the creative freedom with which Elisa works: “I can experiment with micro-productions: clarete, orange wine, ancestral, listán blanco... Each harvest, we create something new.”
So much so that innovation has even reached the calendar. Observing that the vines in winter were not entering dormancy due to a lack of cold and continued to sprout, the idea of harvesting in March emerged in 2022. Thus, Vendimia de Invierno was born, a project aimed at producing fresher wines, with lower alcohol content and higher acidity, perfect for sparkling wines and aging. Additionally, as Elisa explains, it acts as a precursor: “what happens in winter is repeated in summer, allowing us to anticipate the main harvest.”
And as this winery progresses towards increasingly conscious viticulture, it demonstrates that history does not weigh heavily when combined with curiosity, creativity, and resilience. A truly unique territory where more than one person has been tempted to take a piece of black ash or a volcanic rock as a souvenir. A romantic notion, no doubt, but better forgotten, as the stones and sand are heritage, and customs are unforgiving (up to €3,000 fine!). Far more gratifying is to take home a bottle of El Grifo, open it, and let its aroma and flavour transport you directly to La Geria.
