Wine is, above all, a pact with nature. And like any pact, there are years when Mother Nature smiles... and others when she frowns. The weather dictates —100%, without concessions— and the winemaker can only adapt. It is not an exact science: each vintage is a box of surprises, and when the grapes reach the winery, the oenologist sometimes has to resort to plan B... or C.
In Bouzeron, north of the Côte Chalonnaise in Burgundy (France), the rows of vineyards at Domaine de Villaine are not exempt from this fate. Founded in 1971 by Aubert and Pamela de Villaine, the winery has embraced organic farming as its creed since 1986. Here, each plot of aligoté, chardonnay, and pinot noir is cultivated as a small family treasure, now under the care of Pierre de Benoist, Aubert's nephew, who upholds the philosophy of working with patience and precision, always following the rhythm of the land.
Yet in 2021, the land offered little. In the vineyards of Rully, the premier cru plots —Montpalais, Raclot, Margotés, Grésigny, and Rabourcé— did not produce enough to be vinified separately. It was then that the tradition of respecting the terroir met creativity. Faced with the low yield, the decision was made to combine all these plots to create a single chardonnay wine: Domaine de Villaine Rully 1er Cru Cloux Blanc.
For this, vinification follows the house's traditional method, that is, fermentation and ageing on fine lees for 12 months in Burgundy barrels, with 20% new oak to add complexity, without the wood overshadowing the freshness.
As a result, Domaine de Villaine Rully 1er Cru Cloux Blanc is the product of a challenging year. Elegant, precise, and with that tension only achieved when the vine has to fight for every cluster, it is proof that when the climate complicates matters, the winemaker's experience and creativity can transform a challenge into a marvellous bottled gem.