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Artuke, under the guidance of its winemaker Arturo Miguel
We arrive at Baños de Ebro, the verdant heart of the Basque Country. Here, there are no red carpets or tasting rooms. Here, one comes to tread in the mud, quite literally. Today, it's a folding table, two chairs, and most importantly: a genuine conversation with Arturo Miguel, the soul of Artuke, one of the most personal and vibrant projects in the new Rioja.
We arrive on Friday, 16th May, just as fireworks echo in the background. It's San Isidro, the patron saint of farmers. And naturally, Arturo has a meal with the village crew. “There used to be a mass,” he says with a laugh. “But since no one goes to mass anymore... then they complain if things go wrong,” he quips with that sharp and direct Basque humour. Thus begins a captivating and engaging conversation.
We ascend to Finca de los Locos, one of Artuke's highest and most unique plots. The views are breathtaking, but the story is even more so. When Arturo's grandfather bought this estate, everyone in the village thought the same: “He's crazy,” hence the name. Poor soil, difficult access, white grapes... “They said he wouldn't have any luck there. And now... now it's a luxury,” Arturo remarks, pointing to a vineyard where tempranillo, graciano, and viura coexist as they did in the past. Everything cultivated, harvested, and fermented together, as it was done before, without pretence.
From Learning to Living
Arturo is the son and grandson of viticulturists. For decades, his family sold wine in bulk, like many in Rioja. But in 1991, his father decided to change the rules of the game and bottle under their own brand. Thus, Artuke was born, an acronym of his two sons: Arturo and Kike.
Arturo was the first to take over in 2009; Kike joined in 2011. They arrived with university education and many new ideas. But, as is often the case, it was upon returning home that the true learning began.
“I left the university of oenology with my head full of Parker wines: structure, small barrels, extraction... But I realised that the most revolutionary thing was to look back. To return to the essentials. To our roots.” That's why he revived forgotten practices like blending varieties, fermenting in concrete, using large barrels… “If my grandfather were to rise, he'd say: ‘But you haven't invented anything!’” he exclaims with laughter.
The past, far from being a hindrance, has become a compass. Even regarding facilities. “If I had expanded the winery right out of university, I would have built in the middle of the vineyard,” he confesses. “Today I know that growing sensibly means doing so from what already exists. For history. For respect. For coherence.”
A Champion of the Landscape
The Miguel family may not be part of the great sagas of Spanish wine, but Artuke has earned its place —and a good one at that—. The secret? Bottling the true flavour of a landscape.
And they do so with the deepest commitment. “When my eldest son was born with allergies, I reconsidered everything. I started looking at what we ate, how we cultivated… and I understood that change was necessary. Organic is not a trend; it's the only way. If we want this landscape to exist in thirty years for our children, there is no other option.”
Arturo speaks calmly, but every sentence carries weight. He knows that Rioja is diverse and complex, and cannot be reduced to a single model. “Only by supporting the small producers who live close to the vineyard can we defend and give voice to this territory.”
He humorously describes himself as a “young old-timer.” But he believes in the new generations. In educated, well-travelled young people who choose to return. And, above all, who value their heritage. “That's key,” he says.
From this belief arises Rioja’n Roll, a collective of small producers united by a different understanding of wine: with identity, with roots, with soul. “We are 21st-century winemakers”, Arturo summarises. “We are in the vineyard, in the winery, and in the market. But doing it all alone is daunting. In Rioja’n Roll, we support each other. We help each other. Because if you go alone, you go fast. But if you go together, you go further.”
And it doesn't stop there. He is also the president of Futuro Viñador, a national network that brings together family wineries with a clear mission: to defend the craft, care for the land, and advocate for honest and sustainable viticulture.
A Toast with Meaning
At this point, the conversation delves into the current state of wine. “Yes, people drink less wine today. But if they knew everything behind a bottle, they would value it much more”, Arturo reflects. It doesn't sound like a complaint, but an invitation. To look closely. To understand the origin.
New tools like social media have helped to showcase what used to remain behind the scenes. But still, there is a lack of culture, a lack of education, a lack of stories like this, which connect people with what is inside the glass.
Therefore, the visit concludes as it should: at his home, with a bottle of La Condenada open on the table. A red wine that has put Artuke on the radar of the world's most discerning critics. But beyond accolades, it tastes exactly like what Arturo champions: passion, authenticity, roots, and future.
There is no better way to conclude this journey. Here, there are no pretences. There is mud. There is truth. And above all, there is soul.
