A 45-piece puzzle. That is Dominio de Es. And, as with all intriguing puzzles, the significance lies not only in the final image but also in the value of each individual piece.
In Atauta, at the most tranquil edge of the Soriana Ribera del Duero, Bertrand Sourdais crafts his project as one would arrange an ancient map. Comprising small plots —45 in total— which collectively barely cover 6 hectares. Bush-trained vines, many of them pre-phylloxera, planted on soils of sand, limestone, and clay at over 950 metres above sea level. A fragmented, demanding landscape, rich in nuances. Yet within this puzzle, certain pieces stand out. One such piece is Dominio de Es La Mata.
Here, we no longer speak of a collection, but of a solitary piece. A tiny plot, scarcely 0.38 hectares, documented since 1904. Just enough for everything to make sense… or for nothing to remain hidden.
Positioned at 935 metres altitude, with an east-north orientation, this vineyard receives sunlight at the crucial time of day and shelters itself when the sun is most intense. This natural equilibrium allows for a slow, precise, almost silent maturation. The soil, an unusual blend of silty-calcareous sands atop clay, further defines a character more rooted in depth than in power.
The vines, pre-phylloxera and bush-trained, have spent over a century adapting to this environment. They do not yield much —nor is there any need—, but what they produce possesses an identity that is difficult to replicate. Tinto fino as the foundation, accompanied by albillo mayor and a small percentage of alicante bouschet, forms a wine that is born directly from the land.
In the winery, everything follows the same logic of precision. Hand harvesting, long macerations of around 30 days, and ageing in new French oak Burgundy barrels. No artifice, no rush. Only decisions made to refine, not to disguise. The result is approximately 1,000 bottles per vintage. Few, but sufficient to understand that this wine does not aim to be obvious.
Dominio de Es La Mata possesses presence, yet also mystery. It does not reveal itself all at once. It gradually unfolds, evolves, and makes it clear that it is crafted to endure. For those with patience. Because ultimately, as with the finest puzzles, the key is not in seeing the image quickly. It is in savouring how each piece fits together.