Talking about La Place de Bordeux is a big deal. Not all wines can be part of this exclusive distribution system where the wise négociants, keen for the best quality, get hold of those wines that are worthy of a place in the best restaurants, hotels and wine cellars. Here, reputation has to be earned. Fame is worthless. You have to earn your place.
Some large wineries, including Penfolds, have found themselves in this situation. Who could doubt the quality of this Australian giant? However, despite almost two centuries of history, this company did not manage to get into this system until 2022 with their Penfolds Bin 169.
Penfolds Bin 169 is a single-variety Cabernet Sauvignon red made from the winery’s vineyards in Coonawarra, in the state of South Australia, where one of the most special soils in the world is located thanks to the red clay. This area, lying 400 km south of Adelaide and just north of Penola, was discovered in 1860 by early settlers who found it to be the perfect place for growing fruit in general, and grapes in particular. To be more precise, very special wines were made here, with a structure that was very different from any other wine from any other place. This was partly due to two factors: on the one hand, the climate (with cold, rainy winters and mild summers); on the other, obviously, the red soil that is so characteristic of the area. It is crumbly to the touch, with a high limestone content and very good drainage, which allows the storage of large masses of pure water in its lower layers. These are the same ones that help the vines during the summer drought. But watch out! This soil does not yield water as easily, which forces the vines to work hard, maintaining low yields, but of high quality and concentration. Traditionally, Syrah had been the area’s leading grape; however, around 1960, Mildara (a local winery founded in 1887) showed the world that there was also room for Cabernet Sauvignon here. This idea, promoted under the presidency of Harry Ron Haselgrove, was here to stay, with Cabernet Sauvignon being forever linked to the Coonawarra name.
At Penfolds, who are connoisseurs, this relationship was taken to new heights with the production of Penfolds Bin 169, a red wine that is only produced on certain occasions, when the vintage is of high quality. If the grapes do not meet the required standards, that year passes by without any Penfolds Bin 169. Penfolds Bin 169 was inspired by another of the house’s great wines, Penfolds Bin 707 (which was its first single-variety Cabernet Sauvignon). The latter, made by Schubert (Penfolds’ legendary winemaker), fermented in the open air and aged in old oak. Today, inspired by this hallmark, Penfolds Bin 169 aims to maintain this tradition but with much more innovative production methods.